Nestled in the deep blue waters of the East Sea, Ulleung-gun in Gyeongsangbuk-do, South Korea, is a place where history, nature, and geopolitics collide. This volcanic island, often overshadowed by its more famous neighbor Dokdo (Liancourt Rocks), holds a rich and turbulent past that echoes contemporary global issues—territorial disputes, environmental conservation, and cultural preservation.
A Volcanic Birth and Ancient Legends
Ulleungdo’s origins are as dramatic as its jagged cliffs. Formed by volcanic activity millions of years ago, the island’s rugged terrain and fertile soil made it a haven for early settlers. According to Korean historical records, the island was first mentioned in the Samguk Sagi (History of the Three Kingdoms) as part of the Usan-guk territory, a small kingdom that paid tribute to Silla in the 6th century.
Local folklore adds a layer of mystique. One legend speaks of a giant dokkaebi (goblin) who once ruled the island, terrorizing fishermen until a brave warrior outwitted him. Such tales, passed down through generations, highlight the island’s isolation and the resilience of its people.
The Joseon Era: Exile and Exploitation
During the Joseon Dynasty (1392–1910), Ulleungdo became a place of exile for political dissidents. Its remoteness made it an ideal prison—a Korean version of Alcatraz or Devil’s Island. Yet, despite its harsh reputation, the island’s abundant resources—timber, fish, and medicinal herbs—drew illegal loggers and poachers.
In the 17th century, the government implemented the "Empty Island Policy" (Sukdo Policy), forcibly evacuating residents to prevent smuggling and foreign encroachment. This policy, though well-intentioned, left the island vulnerable to Japanese and Russian poachers, foreshadowing future territorial tensions.
The Dokdo Dispute: A Shadow Over Ulleungdo
No discussion of Ulleungdo’s history is complete without addressing the Dokdo controversy. Just 87 kilometers away, Dokdo (called Takeshima in Japan) is a cluster of islets claimed by both South Korea and Japan. While Ulleungdo itself is uncontested, its proximity to Dokdo has made it a strategic outpost.
In 1905, Japan annexed Dokdo during its colonization of Korea, a move still disputed today. South Korea maintains a small police garrison on Dokdo, and Ulleungdo serves as a logistical hub. The island’s residents, many of whom are fishermen, often find themselves caught in the middle of this modern-day Cold War.
World War II and the Ghosts of Imperialism
The 20th century brought new challenges. During World War II, Japan exploited Ulleungdo’s resources, forcing locals into labor. After Korea’s liberation in 1945, the island struggled to rebuild. Many young people left for the mainland, leading to a population decline that continues today.
Yet, Ulleungdo’s strategic importance grew. In the 1950s, the Korean War turned the East Sea into a battleground, and the island became a lookout point for North Korean infiltrators. Even now, remnants of military bunkers dot the landscape, silent witnesses to a divided peninsula.
The Modern Era: Tourism vs. Tradition
Today, Ulleungdo faces a dilemma familiar to many remote communities: how to balance economic development with cultural preservation. In recent decades, the island has embraced tourism, marketing itself as "Korea’s Hawaii"—a title that feels both aspirational and ironic.
The Rise of Eco-Tourism
With its pristine forests, crystal-clear waters, and unique flora (including the rare Ulleungdo aster), the island has become a hotspot for eco-tourists. Hiking trails like the Dodong-ri Coastal Walk and the Seonginbong Peak trek attract nature lovers. However, this boom has raised concerns about overdevelopment and environmental degradation.
The Fishermen’s Plight
For the island’s aging fishing community, tourism is a double-edged sword. While it brings revenue, it also disrupts traditional ways of life. Many young people prefer working in hotels rather than braving the treacherous seas—a trend seen in coastal communities worldwide.
The Future: Between Isolation and Globalization
As the world grapples with climate change, territorial disputes, and cultural erosion, Ulleungdo stands at a crossroads. Will it become a Disneyfied tourist destination, or can it preserve its unique identity?
One thing is certain: this small island, with its dramatic history and breathtaking beauty, will continue to captivate those who dare to explore its shores.
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